Finally got to Pachaca­mac, the Inca ruins south of Lima. Quite incred­ible. We wandered around for a while won­der­ing why they had built their huge temples and city here when we went up inside the Templo del Sol and over it and sud­denly could see the entire Pacific Ocean and survey the green farm­lands beneath us. Sud­denly, it all made sense.

The bus ride to Pachaca­mac was pretty con­front­ing: shanty towns all up the hill­side that look like brightly colored ship­ping con­tain­ers hung with drying clothes and blar­ing radios; work­ers in wretched streets with weld­ers and build­ing cars right there in road­side work­shops; chil­dren rest­ing tired heads against carts over­flow­ing with veget­ables they´re trying to sell. We had a pretty heated dis­cus­sion about our role as tour­ists in a coun­try this abject – much worse than Russia as I saw it in 2003 – and in what could actu­ally be done in a mean­ing­ful sense even by the popu­lace themselves. 

We´re pretty tired but in the end had a great day and we´re off early tomor­row morn­ing to catch a flight to Puerto Mal­don­ado and the Amazo­nian retreat called Explorer´s Inn.

We´ll see if I can update from there. Oth­er­wise, I´ll tell you more when we hit Cuzco. Love and stuff!